Don’t eat gluten? Then you probably don’t drink it either, which puts beer mostly off limits.
The good news is, more and more gluten-free beers are appearing on the market. Any decent beer aisle will have at least one and possibly a half dozen. Brands like Lakefront Brewery, Green’s and even Anheuser-Busch offer naturally gluten-free beers.
These beers are generally made with rice, buckwheat, millet and sorghum, and for those with celiac disease or who simply want to avoid gluten, these are the only beers that matter.
Trouble is, they aren’t supposed to be very good. Barley and wheat, the two grains on which the beer industry most heavily relies, don’t just add gluten to a beer. They also add lots of sweet, full flavor -part of what makes beer taste so good. Beers made with gluten-free grains are often said to be thinner and lacking in body. (I couldn’t tell you. I don’t know that I’ve had one.)
However, Brendan Moylan tells me he recently tasted some gluten-free beers - an IPA and a pilsner -that taste great, just like normal beer. That’s because they basically are normal beers. The brewery that made them (Moylan couldn’t remember the brewery’s name but says they’re in San Francisco) added a natural compound that breaks down gluten in fermented beer. The enzyme eliminates nearly, though not quite all, the gluten in a beer, making it more or less acceptable for the gluten-free crowd.
Moylan was so impressed that he did the same thing himself, at Moylan’s Brewing Co. in Novato. His brewers added a dash of Brewer’s Clarex, the product name for the gluten-pulling enzyme, to a batch of Moylan’s golden ale during cold storage.
“It came out really well,” says owner Brendan Moylan. “It tastes like a real beer.”
The enzyme that does this trick is made by a species of mold called Aspergillus niger, which food technicians cultivate in order to isolate the gluten-pulling component. The enzyme reduces a beer’s gluten content to less than 20 parts per million of gluten. This is enough to meet the general international definition of “gluten-free.” The U.S. Food and Drug Administration, though, only allows beers treated with this enzyme to be called “gluten-reduced,” not “gluten-free” — which seems fair enough. Stone Brewing Co. and a brand called Omission have made gluten-reduced beers using this technique.
Even though gluten-free beers made with gluten-free grains haven’t been highly rated in general, some brewers would rather make a gluten-free beer the real way than cheat by adding the enzyme.
The market, based on beer production, is segmented into microbreweries and macro breweries. With a global change in drinking preferences, the demand for microbreweries is considerably increasing and is anticipated to register a high CAGR of 9.3% over the forecast period, 2015-2020.
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